11 Days to the Summit

It was our last evening training walk last night before we leave next week. We will have a longish hike on Sunday and that will be it for training. Two or three days rest then we are off. It we are not fit enough now we will never be.

As a group we all get on very well and are always chatting as we walk but last night we were surprisingly quiet on the outward leg. All deep in our own thoughts of the hike up Kilimanjaro and the potential problems we may face. Sheila and I have been avid readers of the Kili Climbing exploits that are so prevalent on the net. Everybody seems very keen to describe in detail the worst moments, the hardest climbs, the coldest weather and the most revolting long drop toilets. I guess the principle here is that if it was that bad then it was that much more amazing that they got to the top. So our thoughts right now are for the hardships we may face and the pain we will inevitably have to endure if we are to make the summit.

But what about those many thousands of hikers who don’t make it? Where are their stories on the internet? There are many different numbers quoted in various publications about how many people climb the mountain each year and how many make it. The Tanzanian authorities know of course, but they aren’t telling so it seems that there are between 20,000 and 35,000 people who attempt the climb each year and between 50% and 65% make it. That means between 7,000 and 17,500 people don’t get to the top each year. A sobering thought after they have spent so much time and money in the attempt. The most likely to fail apparently, are young fit men. AMS gets them because they try to go to quickly, don’t eat the right food and generally don’t treat the climb with the respect it deserves.

We have also heard stories of people crawling up the mountain on the last day as they drag themselves towards the summit. Taking in 50% less oxygen, panting like a steam train with the mother of all hangovers that is AMS (altitude sickness). Your muscles screaming at you to stop and only the last few drops of your positive mental attitude driving you on. Then of course, there are at least 10 people each year who die in the attempt to get to the top. Altitude sickness is a killer if it is not treated or ignored.

So our thought on the outward journey were on these things. We stopped after an hour and a half at my favourite break spot overlooking the bush and onwards to the sea. The mood lightened as we sat and eat out energy bars and apples, talking about the final purchases (surely there can’t be anything more to purchase) and the detailed plans. I took the inevitable pictures and then we started the one hour walk back.

The mood was much less sombre on the inward journey. We sang songs and made up words telling of successful days ahead. We were stopped on the way by a young man wishing us well on the trip ahead. He had, apparently, read the story in the newspaper and recognised us on the road.