10th Day after Climbing Kilimanjaro

It has now been 10 days since we left the mountain and it is time to finish this blog and post the last of the pictures. This is a harder task than I thought it would be.

The mountain has consumed me. For the last 6 months we have talked about nothing else, we have been preparing, training, purchasing equipment, asking “what if” questions and considering every eventuality. Before we left we were ready. We were fit and had all possibilities covered.

Then came the day and we left with excitement in our hearts and just a little trepidation in our minds. What would we find when we get there?

Well… it was nothing like our expectations. We had enjoyed the training and were expecting to enjoy the walk up the mountain but after the first day it was less enjoyment and more just hard work. Each day we pushed ourselves harder than we ever thought possible, reaching and surpassing personal boundaries. We experienced every possible weather condition from hot sun through rain, biting cold, sleet, high winds and deep snow.

Altitude sickness affected us all and despite the Diamox tablets that we debated prior to trip, in the end it was the altitude that stopped me from getting right to the top. I lived with the nausea for 4 days, coming in waves especially at meal times, but it was my inability to get enough oxygen into my lungs that was the most disabling. Sheila got an infection that slowed her down considerably. Pam (our hitchhiker) got fed up with throwing up all the time but John, although he had some of the symptoms of altitude sickness, seemed to be less affected than the rest of us.

So Sheila and John summitted at Gilman’s Point (a fantastic achievement at 5681m) and my personal achievement was 5081m which got me to Indian Rock on the last morning, 600 meters lower before my body gave in to the altitude and I passed out.

So what have we learnt? My first reaction was that I have failed. I set out to climb a mountain and despite 6 months of training and preparation, I wasn’t able to do it. The next reaction was to think of all the reasons I was not able to make it. I needed to forgive myself for this failure (I am not used to failure and am not comfortable handling it) but everything I thought of just sounded like an excuse.

Now I see it differently. With the benefit of hindsight, I can see that each of us succeeded. Climbing Kilimanjaro is not just about getting to the top. Once you have been there you know how arbitrarily the mountain chooses who should reach the top and who shouldn’t. If there is a prize at all it should go to the guides who climb the mountain 20 times a year with less equipment and far less effort than the tourists.

Climbing Kilimanjaro is all about breaking personal barriers. Each one of us walked harder and climbed higher than we ever have before. Each one of us pushed ourselves further than we thought possible. Each one of us faced the real possibility of dieing on the mountain (that may sound dramatic at sea level but up there it is in your mind). Each one of us came back with a greater understanding of ourselves. And, of course, each one of us helped to raise over R60,000 for Reach for a Dream. Sounds like a success to me.

Finally before I wind this whole thing up and get on with my life, I would like to place on record how much we all appreciated the contribution made by our Guide Juma and his assistant Rashedi. Juma in particular was an exceptional and caring guide who went well beyond the call of duty to help us reach our goals.

6th Day on the Mountain

I have just re-read the blog entry for yesterday and hope that my daughter was able to translate it into English! [Cherri: I think I managed ok!] I will ask my daughter to save it and later next week publish it in its entirety. One of the things about altitude sickness is that your mind goes to mush [Cherri: So with me being pregnant with a preggie mush brain we're doing well!!!].

One thing I left from the day's activities yesterday is that once Sheila and John arrived back at the hut at Kibo (4700m) from their exhausting but successful summit at Gillman's Point they had only one hour to rest before we all made our way back to Horombo (3700m). So, they have done the most amazing, but draining thing in their entire life - sleep for just one hour then walk another 11Kms before the Sun went down.

Sheila and I were wasted. John on the other hand was fine (John is such a strong person both physically and mentally). We arrived at Horombo just as the Sun was going down.

So, once we got up this morning, we all readied ourselves for the last downward trek.

Today was a very tough day. In many ways going down hill is harder than going up... and we never practised going down so I have really stretched muscles I didn't know I had.

I am still breathing heavily even though I am down at a reasonable altitude, but for the rest...a few days in Zanzibar will do the trick.

This will be the last blog entry for about 10 days. I intend to put up lots of photographs and a summary of what we have achieved. So pop back after about 10 days or so. Don't forget that it is not too late to make a pledge, and if you feel lick it, click on the "comments" button below and say a few words.

One last thing, well done to John and Sheila for summiting at Gillman's, I am very proud of you.

Day 5 on the Mountain

Just to let you know that all are safe and well. We are half way back down the mountain and sleeping, looking forward to the race tomorrow back down to the Marangu gate...but I am getting ahead of myself...

At about 10.30PM lasst night, we were woken to get ready for the final push up the mountain to Uhuru Peak, which is right at the top of the mountain and the ultimate target for all climbers.

The day was clear with a full moon so we didn't need our headlights on.

As soon as we were out of camp we started to walk through thick snow. We weren't really prepared for this as we didn't have crampons, ironic really as I had had the idea to climb the mountain as Al Gore had recognised that the snow will be gone in 10 years - next time Al, take on the mountain yourself! For us, tackling the mountain has always been about the significance of the journey - firstly of course seeing it still laden with snow, the personal journey, but later on it also became about a journey to assisting others to fulfill their dreams, by using our journey to raise funds for the Reach for a Dream Foundation.

The snow was beautiful of course, but every step forward, was a step sidewards.

We were all very tired, but the first casualty was Pam, she had nausea (didn't we!) but hers was very severe, so she asked to go back. Then we were down to three. The climb was getting interesting until the next thing that happened - I went from standing straight, to straight up with my face in the snow! Jamu and all had no problem with me going back, I was proud that the others went on, but I achieved Inbian Rock at 5000m above sea level and no-one can take that away...sure, it isn't Uhuru Peak (5895m above sea level), only three of our troop got there today as the weather was so bad. I cannot tell you how Sheila and John performed, but I am very proud of them, summitting at Gillman's Point 5680m above sea level before they were also sent back.

That's the end of the message I received from my Dad.

I just received a telephone call from very good family friends Geoff and Sue Stephens in England who rang to check that our travellers are safe and healthy and to say how proud they are of our travellers achievements and to send love to them.

Mum, Dad, John we are all so proud of you for your extraordinary accomplishments, and I have to tell you, I was inundated with phone calls, sms's and emails yesterday from family and friends enquiring after your wellbeing. You guys have all done remarkably well.

Wish I were there to give you all huge hugs, I'm sure Linda will oblige though when she meets up with you all in Zanzibar.

Namasté.

Evening of Day 3 on the Mountain - Horombo Camp

We are all resting in the hut now, waiting for dinner. It is just too cold to do anything other than get in your sleeping bag fully clothed. I am wearing fleece trousers, thermal underwear, 2 pairs of socks, a t-shirt, fleece jacket and a rain jacket.

[There seems to be some text missing from the sms from my Dad, so I shall update when I receive the rest].

Day 3 on the Mountain continued...

To raise funds for Reach for a Dream...

At least the Sun is now out, so we can dry our clothes.

Sheila is also suffering this morning, but John and Pam seem to be managing better. The Diamox probably helps, but nobody is going to stop taking it to find out...Not a chance! I am also wearing wrist straps that are meant to reduce nausea. They were my Mother's. She didn't believe that they worked, but she wore them just in case, now I know how she felt.

It is just amazing how many people we have seen here in Horombo Camp who didn't make it to the top. I certainly don't blame them.

So this is a rest day. Just as the rain starts we walk to Zebra's Rock, which is just over 3 hours our guide, Juma tells us. But, they were the hardest 3 hours of the trip so far. My mind wandered constantly to how I could go back now without losing face...maybe I could just give Reach for a Dream the money, then I could give up.

Back at Horombo Camp 3 hours later and all thoughts of giving up are gone. Having been to Zebra's Rock at 4050m, the camp is at 3750m, which is much easier to cope with.

Tomorrow is the big day - we'll be up early for an 11km walk and 1km up. We'll arrive at around 4PM for a rest and then the final summit from 11PM. I can't wait.

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Day 3 on the Mountain

Just got word in from my Mum that they are back down from Zebra's Rock, which is at 4050m, to acclimatise, she says that it is raining, very cold and she's very nauseous. She says they're taking what they can, but she and my Dad have been incredibly ill, she says she can breathe, but she'd rather throw up or sleep! She says that this is the most difficult thing she has ever done in her life. Mum says their guide, Juma, is amazing!

Next text came in from my Dad, he says: Today is a rest day... yeah right! When I woke up I felt worse than ever!

Remember, the travellers summit tomorrow night... keep them in your thoughts and send them strength.

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End of Day 2 (Sunday) on the Mountain continued...

News just in from the travellers about the end of Day 2 on the Mountain...

It has rained all day today and we are all very tired and wet. Our duffle bags that the porters carry are not waterproof, so we all have wet gear. We are praying for warm weather tomorrow.

Altitude sickness has really grabbed me (Richard) and I am feeling nauseous all the time. In addition, I just can't get enough oxygen and this is only the second day. I slept badly last night, so I shall take a sleeping pill tonight.

Despite the weather and lack of oxygen, this mountain is spectacular, she occasionally peaks through the clouds, tempting us to go on. The peak is covered with snow, which will be great for pictures, but not so good for the cold.

I am off to sleep now, sleeping is the only time I don't feel like throwing up!

We have a rest day tomorrow, I can't wait!

End of Day 2 on the Mountain

I just had an sms from my Mum, to say that it is really cold where they are...they're currently at 3720m above sea level. She said that they've found today rather difficult and that it had rained all day today, so they're cold...and wet - hopefully the rest at the end of this long day will give them an opportunity to have something warm to eat and drink to warm them up a bit and keep them strong.

Mum said that my Dad's cellphone is rather swimmingpool-like at the moment and Mum's camera appears to have suffered a similar fate!

I hope the travellers will be able to have a better night's sleep tonight, ready for their day tomorrow.

You will see above that I have included a weather report, this is so that you can get an idea of the conditions that Mum, Dad, John and Pam are walking in...so keep them in your thoughts and send them strength. Remember, they summit on Tuesday night.

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Day 2 on the Mountain

We are up early this morning, this is probably due, in part, to an early night, but mostly, that most of us didn't sleep so well. I probably only slept 4 hours out of the 9 we were in bed. Altitude sickness has given me a hangover and we are going to take Diamox this morning.

Today we walk out of the rain forest and into our second climate - Moreland. It is wet and cold, but we are told that it will brighten up.

The food last night was not special, but ok...lots of Potatoes. We have to eat lots now as we will have no appetite as we climb higher.

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Day One on the Mountain Continued...

We arrived at the first camp, to find that it is considerably better than we had expected.

Today's walk was steep and brisk. The tropical rain forest is almost prehistoric with ferns and lichen hanging from every branch. The local superstition here suggests that he who sees Kili before you climb it will not get to summit, on the basis that you have seen it already, so you don't have to bother getting to the top!

The mountain was draped in clouds when we approached, so the gods are with us!

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4 Days to the Summit

We're now at Marangu gating filling in the required forms and have picked up a new member of our group...Pam, who didn't want to travel alone. So, we now have someone to take genius shots like this one!



This is our first day on the mountain and the weather is perfect for walking. We are all itching to get going. The porters have to weigh their load as they are not allowed to carry more than 15kgs. And...we're off!


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Leaving Johannesburg

I have just dropped my folks and John off at the airport, having managed to get there in very comfortable timing, despite the majority of the robots on the way being out thanks to load-shedding!

On the left is a pic of the troop taken this morning in our little garden with all their hiking gear, fired up and ready to go.

Hopefully I'll have a further update for you this evening when the troop arrives at the Springlands Hotel...until then...feel free to add your comments by clicking on the word "comments" below.

5 Days to the Summit

We all had a long and difficult night last night. We were in bed early as it was bl***dy cold and misty. I woke at midnight and had great difficulty sleeping for more than an hour without waking up. I certainly had the headache and nausea that goes with the altitude. Good thing really. At least I know what to expect, only more so.....

The drive down Sani Pass was much more fun than driving up. They are laying tarmac on the road so it will be an easy drive soon. Good for the tourist trade but not so good for the 4x4 clubs.
Ten and a half hours later we are in Johannesburg staying with my daughter and her husband for a night and then off to Tanzania tomorrow.

No time yet to feel any apprehension. I guess that will click in as we start the climb. As I type this John is unpacking and repacking his gear on the floor in the lounge. Mark, my son-in-law, is worried that we are moving in and not, in fact, climbing the mountain.

The gear on the floor is very impressive. If you are thinking about doing the trip you need to put asside R15,000 for the gear in addition to the price of the airfare and climb. This is not a cheep holiday, I will let you know if it is worth it next week.

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6 Days to the Summit

Okay.... So here we are at the top of Sani Pass 2874m up in the mist. It is cold and wet but the drive was wonderful.

We left Durban at 09:45 after packing John's Hyundai 4x4 with all the gear for the three of us. There was much hilarity when John admitted to packing 3.5 kilograms of snacks for the climb. Now we are encouraged to take energy bars and snacks but 3.5 kg?

The drive up to Sani is most definitely for 4x4 drivers. I found it exciting but hard work however John found it harder as he has some difficulty with heights. (and he is climbing to the highest point in Africa?) The mist came down just as we got to the part where the best pictures can be taken. Tomorrow the weather will be better..... I hope.

Bright Blessings on Your Journey

As my Dad has mentioned, I will be updating the blog whilst my folks and John are climbing Kili...

At the moment, the three of them are on their way to Sani Pass for the night. They'll then make their way up here to Johannesburg tomorrow to spend the night with Mark and I before embarking on their trip to Kili on Friday.

My Dad has wanted to do the Kili trip for many years now, and I am so glad that he finally has not only the opportunity, but the perfect climbing partners too.

All three of them are very strong willed mentally, and by that, I mean nothing other than that when they set their minds on achieving a particular goal, they will stop at nothing to reach that goal. I know that they will have the same resolve for summitting Kili and wish them Brightest Blessings on their journey.

I thought I'd take this opportunity to say how proud I am to have such special parents and John of course, being a very dear family friend whom I have known since I was rather young, who are all doing something so remarkable and for such a worthy cause. Mum, Dad, John... Namasté.

Love
Cherri

7 Days to the Summit

Written in Durban - 56m above sea level

We are off tomorrow so we are just putting the last finishing touches to the packing. We have put all the things that we just can't climb without in our rucksacks and the rest in the duffle bag. The principle here is that all the baggage handlers in Kilimanjaro international Airport and at O. R. Tambo airport know exactly what is in the bags flying to Kilimanjaro so they are very tempting. Not only that, bags get lost at airports. No?..... Oh Yes... sometimes. And we don't want to get to the mountain and not have the really essential stuff. We can manage with only the underpants we are standing in but we couldn't manage without all the warm gear needed at the top.

So in the rucksack (carry on luggage) we have the fleece jacket, fleece trousers, balaclava, outer gloves and inner gloves, thermal underwear, waterproof trousers and sleeping bag, etc. We will be wearing our walking boots, windproof trousers and carrying out hi tech jackets. That should do it.

Next stop Sani Pass. I am really looking forward to this stage in the trip. If you want to know why we are going to Sani Pass (which is not exactly on the way to Kilimanjaro) then read back a few entries in this blog.

I have put in a few pictures of what we expect to find when we start to climb at the end of the week. We will be updating this blog at least daily from now so keep coming back and see what we are up to.

By the way... Please feel free to add your comments as you read this blog. Just click on the button below and type away.

10 Days to the Summit

Our last training walk and we are at Shongweni on an overcast but beautiful Sunday. The trail here is closed so we have had to make our own hike through the bush. Actually it has been great fun and are now half way round and testing the blog update system.

The principle is that I email this message to my daughter, Cherri, as we break for lunch and she updates the blog. Lets see how that works.

We will break for a few days and then off on Wednesday.

11 Days to the Summit

It was our last evening training walk last night before we leave next week. We will have a longish hike on Sunday and that will be it for training. Two or three days rest then we are off. It we are not fit enough now we will never be.

As a group we all get on very well and are always chatting as we walk but last night we were surprisingly quiet on the outward leg. All deep in our own thoughts of the hike up Kilimanjaro and the potential problems we may face. Sheila and I have been avid readers of the Kili Climbing exploits that are so prevalent on the net. Everybody seems very keen to describe in detail the worst moments, the hardest climbs, the coldest weather and the most revolting long drop toilets. I guess the principle here is that if it was that bad then it was that much more amazing that they got to the top. So our thoughts right now are for the hardships we may face and the pain we will inevitably have to endure if we are to make the summit.

But what about those many thousands of hikers who don’t make it? Where are their stories on the internet? There are many different numbers quoted in various publications about how many people climb the mountain each year and how many make it. The Tanzanian authorities know of course, but they aren’t telling so it seems that there are between 20,000 and 35,000 people who attempt the climb each year and between 50% and 65% make it. That means between 7,000 and 17,500 people don’t get to the top each year. A sobering thought after they have spent so much time and money in the attempt. The most likely to fail apparently, are young fit men. AMS gets them because they try to go to quickly, don’t eat the right food and generally don’t treat the climb with the respect it deserves.

We have also heard stories of people crawling up the mountain on the last day as they drag themselves towards the summit. Taking in 50% less oxygen, panting like a steam train with the mother of all hangovers that is AMS (altitude sickness). Your muscles screaming at you to stop and only the last few drops of your positive mental attitude driving you on. Then of course, there are at least 10 people each year who die in the attempt to get to the top. Altitude sickness is a killer if it is not treated or ignored.

So our thought on the outward journey were on these things. We stopped after an hour and a half at my favourite break spot overlooking the bush and onwards to the sea. The mood lightened as we sat and eat out energy bars and apples, talking about the final purchases (surely there can’t be anything more to purchase) and the detailed plans. I took the inevitable pictures and then we started the one hour walk back.

The mood was much less sombre on the inward journey. We sang songs and made up words telling of successful days ahead. We were stopped on the way by a young man wishing us well on the trip ahead. He had, apparently, read the story in the newspaper and recognised us on the road.

14 Days to go to the Summit

Last night we walked for two and a half hours in the rain. We have avoided rainy evenings to train in the past, but it was good to test out the rainwear. The rucksack covers are really bright -luminous actually (see picture). I guess that is so we don’t lose each other in the clouds!


We have also learnt to appreciate the wonderful flora that we have, even in built up areas like Durban. I can’t wait to see all the different plants and flowers in the 4 different climates that we walk through up Kilimanjaro.



This flame lily is in Virginia Bush and the beautiful display of lilies was on the side on the road. It is amazing what you miss when you drive everywhere.

15 Days to go to the Summit

Do you remember holidays when you were young? In my family as a child, for as long as I can remember, we had a two week holiday every year without fail. It was organised well in advance, always by the seaside, (the destination changing as my father earned more) and we all looked forward to it for months. We would discuss what we were going to do while we were away, buy new cloths for the occasion, each of the children would have some new toy to take with them and we would pack and repack a week in advance. These holidays lasted until I was old enough to prefer staying with my girlfriend at home, but I remember them all as if they happened yesterday.

That tradition of annual holidays has slipped away… until now. Climbing Kilimanjaro is just the same. We have been planning this “holiday” for months now. We know every detail, have discussed every eventuality, trained daily to be fit enough, bought new cloths, and Sheila and I have bought each other a new “toy” to take with us for the three days in Zanzibar after the climb. Our bags have been packed for weeks with the specialised clothes we have bought for the trip and we discuss the trip for at least an hour every night.

Not only that… How many of you have planned a holiday in such detail that you have a blog to record the occasion? Such Fun!

We have a week to go before we leave so we are walking every night. I know we are fit enough but the feeling is that if we work harder now it will be easier on that dreaded last few meters to the summit from midnight on the 23^rd January.

I managed to get hold of the Stedman book on trekking up Kilimanjaro and I recommend it to anybody thinking of doing the same. Of course, I can’t tell you how accurate it is until I come done on the 24^th but it is a great read.

I am still working on converting one of my walking poles to a camera tripod. I have a light aluminium tripod that travelled Africa with me but it is bulky and slow to erect. I have a feeling I will need something instant to catch that special picture. I will let you know how it works out.

17 Days to go to the summit

Are you taking the pill? When I was much younger and single, this question had quite a different meaning and a positive answer promised good things for the near future.

The pill on my mind today is quite a different prophylactic called Diamox and when taken at the rate of three a day will, apparently, reduce the effects of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). We are still discussing the relative merits of taking “The Pill” or not but I went ahead and bought some anyway. My first surprise came when I got to the till at the pharmacy. R1700.00! And this was for the generic equivalent. I would probably have had to sell my car to buy the real thing. If they work, (there is some debate on this matter) and if we get AMS (not everybody is susceptible) I am sure this amount will be considered to be a good investment, but it is possible that we may not use them at all.

The argument seems to go like this:

Diamox is a prophylactic (preventative measure) but it is also a diuretic (takes water out of the body). Most of the specialists tell us that the best way to avoid AMS is to drink lots of water so the Diamox will counteract this solution.

If we take Diamox and then get AMS we will have nothing to treat it with because we are already taking the treatment.

Unfortunately medicine is not an exact science. The effects of AMS seem to be like the mother of all hangovers, made worse, apparently, by drinking alcohol on the way up.

The way we are talking at the moment, John and Sheila want to take the tablets from day one, but I want to avoid the tablets unless I need them. I will keep you posted.

20 Days to go

I love living in Durban. Having spent the first 38 years of my life in the UK, the weather is just right for me here. It doesn’t have the pace of Johannesburg which suits me fine and I am 20 minutes away from an airport to take me anywhere I need to work. I love Durban… but.

To climb Kilimanjaro, or apparently any height above 2,400 meters, we will need to manage AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) and people from the coast are more susceptible than people from higher altitudes, say Johannesburg. The theory is that you climb high and sleep low, getting higher and higher as you go.

To counteract the effect of living in Durban we have decided to get to the highest possible point in South Africa and stay over night on the way to Johannesburg, and then fly to Tanzania. I have booked the three of us in backpackers accommodation (might as well get used to it) at the top of Sani Pass (2874 meters) on the 16th January. We will stay with my daughter in Johannesburg (1800 meters) on the 17th and stay over night in Moshi Tanzania (1800 meters) on the 18th and then start the climb. With a bit of luck that will help us to acclimatise

The Photo Routine. We are getting into a habit now. Every time the cameras come out we know how to get the best of the photography. Sheila is very good at reminding us “Sunglasses off so that the camera can see your eyes, Caps turned round so there is no shadow on the face and stomachs in!”

John and I went for an excellent walk around Virginia Bush last night. Two and a half hours at a fairly steady pace. Sheila couldn’t come as she had to do the airport run. You will notice from the picture that we forgot the last part the photo routine.

We have been blessed with wonderful children two of whom (Cherri and Keylim) live and work in Johannesburg (Cherri with her husband Mark). It was delightful to have all three of them for the Christmas Season but surely they can arrange to travel together. No…. Six flights! And. Of course, 6 flights mean 6 trips to the airport. Oh well….

21 Days to go

Christmas has come and gone and we have missed out on the regular training sessions. John went with his family to Cape Town to spend Christmas with his daughter and Sheila and I had hundreds here so it was harder to walk.

John did manage 18 km to Hout Bay but we hadn’t walked at all until yesterday evening. Saturday was very hot so we decided to wait until 16:30 and walk from then. Two and a half hours around the streets of Durban was fun. We always seem to have things to chat about and plan for. I am beginning to wonder what we will do after Kilimanjaro. Will we still walk in the evenings? Somehow I doubt it, which will be a shame because we all enjoy the exercise and the camaraderie.

It is amazing what you can see when you are walking. What about this metal man with his dog outside a house.

The moon was full last week. The next time it is a full moon we will be summiting Kilimanjaro. I am beginning to get excited. I have posted a picture of the moon last night, New Years Eve.(I can’t get over what an amazing camera this is) It was lovely clear evening here in Durban and we celebrated with the family.